How to clean and condition a leather jacket (without ruining it)

A good leather jacket can last decades, but only if it’s looked after properly. The good news: leather needs much less care than most people think. Too much product does more harm than too little.

This guide covers smooth leather jackets (cowhide, lambskin, goatskin). Suede and the outside of shearling need different care; see the note at the end.

The basic routine

How often	What to do
After wearing in rain or snow	Blot dry, hang at room temperature
Every few weeks of wear	Wipe with a soft, dry or slightly damp cloth
Once or twice a year (or when it looks dry)	Clean gently, then condition
At the end of the season	Clean, condition, store properly

Step 1: Clean

1. Brush or wipe off dust with a soft dry cloth.
2. Wipe with a damp cloth. Use plain water, wrung out until the cloth is barely damp. Work in sections, especially collar, cuffs and pocket edges where skin oils build up.
3. For grime, use a leather cleaner made for jackets, or a small amount of saddle soap worked into a lather on a damp cloth. Wipe it off with a second clean damp cloth.
4. Let it dry naturally for a few hours on a wide hanger, away from heat and direct sun.

Always test any product on a hidden spot first, such as inside a front facing or under the collar, and wait for it to dry before doing the whole jacket.

Step 2: Condition

Leather is skin. Over time it loses the oils that keep it flexible, and dry leather eventually cracks, usually at the elbows, shoulders and collar.

1. Use a conditioner made for leather garments. Cream conditioners are easiest to apply evenly.
2. Put a small amount on a soft cloth, not directly on the jacket.
3. Rub it in with small circular motions, a section at a time. A thin, even layer is enough.
4. Let it absorb for an hour or so, then buff off any excess with a clean dry cloth.

If the jacket feels sticky or looks darker and blotchy, you’ve used too much. Buff more and wait longer before the next application.

How often? For most jackets worn regularly, once or twice a year is plenty. Condition sooner if the leather looks dull, feels stiff or shows fine surface lines when you bend it.

What never to do

• Don’t machine wash or tumble dry. Water and heat together shrink and stiffen leather permanently.
• Don’t dry it with heat. No radiators, hair dryers or sunny windowsills.
• Don’t use kitchen oils like olive or coconut oil. They can go rancid, darken the leather unevenly and attract dirt.
• Don’t use household cleaners, baby wipes or alcohol on the surface. They strip the finish.
• Don’t store it in plastic. Leather needs to breathe; plastic traps moisture and encourages mould.
• Don’t hang it on a thin wire hanger. It stretches the shoulders out of shape.

If it gets soaked

1. Blot off surface water with a towel. Don’t rub.
2. Stuff the sleeves and body loosely with towels or paper to help it hold shape.
3. Hang it on a wide hanger at room temperature until fully dry, which can take a day or two.
4. Once dry, condition lightly. Water draws oils out of the leather.

Stains and marks

• Light scuffs and scratches: on full-grain or lightly finished leather, rubbing firmly with a clean finger often blends them in, because the warmth moves the leather’s own oils. A little conditioner helps.
• Water spots: dampen the whole panel evenly with a barely damp cloth so it dries to one even colour.
• Grease or oil: blot immediately. Don’t use water; ask a leather specialist if it doesn’t fade.
• Ink: leave it to a professional leather cleaner. Home remedies often spread it.

Mould

Jackets stored somewhere damp can grow mould, usually a white or green bloom. Take the jacket outside, brush the mould off gently, then wipe the surface with a cloth dampened in a mix of roughly equal parts water and white vinegar. Dry it at room temperature and condition. If the mould is inside the lining or keeps coming back, take it to a leather cleaner.

Storage between seasons

• Clean and condition first; dirt left on leather for months can set.
• Use a wide, shaped or padded hanger.
• Cover it with a breathable cotton garment bag, not plastic.
• Keep it somewhere cool, dry and dark, with space around it.
• Empty the pockets so they don’t stretch.

Suede and shearling

Suede, nubuck and the suede outside of most shearling jackets shouldn’t be treated with conditioner. Use a suede brush to lift the nap, a suede eraser for marks, and a suede protector spray before winter. Read our shearling winter guide for dealing with snow and road salt.