Aviator and B-3 bomber jackets: the complete guide

The sheepskin aviator jacket is one of the few pieces of clothing that was designed to keep people alive. It was built for aircrews flying in open or unheated cockpits, and the features that look like style today (the huge collar, the throat straps, the thick wool lining) all had a job to do.

This guide explains where the aviator and the B-3 came from, how they compare with the other classic flight jackets, and how to choose, fit and look after one so it lasts as long as the originals have.

Aviator, bomber, B-3: what the names mean

The names get used loosely, so it helps to pin them down first.

• Aviator jacket is the broad term for a short sheepskin flying jacket: leather or suede outside, wool inside, a big shearling collar. Most modern “aviators” are inspired by the British RAF flying jacket and the American B-3.
• B-3 is a specific US military pattern: a heavy sheepskin jacket with a wide shearling collar that closes with two leather straps.
• Bomber jacket is used for almost any short, waist-length flying jacket. It can mean a sheepskin B-3, a leather A-2, or a nylon MA-1, so always check what a listing actually means.

If you want real cold-weather warmth, the words to look for are sheepskin or genuine shearling, not just “bomber” or “aviator”.

A short history

The RAF flying jacket

Leslie Irvin was an American parachute pioneer who moved to England and set up a manufacturing company there in 1926. His sheepskin flying jacket was approved for British pilots in the early 1930s, and his company became a major supplier of flying jackets to the Royal Air Force during the Second World War.

Fighter cockpits in that era were enclosed but still unheated, so pilots needed serious insulation. The early jackets were cut from large single panels of sheepskin. As wartime demand grew, makers switched to smaller stitched panels to use smaller hides and offcuts, which is why many vintage RAF jackets have a patchwork look. Pilots wore them during the Battle of Britain in 1940, and the full-panel version is still known as the “Battle of Britain” pattern.

The American B-3

The US Army Air Corps standardised the Type B-3 in 1934, developed from the same sheepskin idea. It was a “heavy zone” jacket meant for bomber crews at high altitude, where cabins were unpressurised and bitterly cold. Its defining features were heavy sheepskin with the wool left on, a very wide collar that could be strapped shut across the throat, and no knitted waistband.

Lighter patterns followed as aircraft cabins improved: the B-6 was a slimmer, lighter sheepskin jacket, and from 1943 cloth flying jackets such as the B-10 and later the B-15 began to replace the bulky sheepskin models.

From cockpit to street

After the war, surplus jackets and film and press images of aircrews made the sheepskin flyer a symbol of toughness and adventure. It has cycled back into menswear many times since, and this season’s runway and retail coverage again features shearling and warm, brown leather tones. The reason it keeps returning is simple: very few jackets are this warm, this tough and this good-looking at the same time.

How the classic flight jackets compare

Jacket	Shell	Lining and insulation	Collar	Warmth	Best for today
RAF-style aviator	Sheepskin, leather or suede finish	Sheepskin wool	Huge shearling collar, often with a strap	Very warm	Cold, dry city winters; the classic look
B-3	Heavy sheepskin	Thick sheepskin wool	Very wide shearling collar, two straps	Warmest of the group	Deep cold, long periods outside
B-6	Lighter sheepskin	Shorter wool	Shearling collar, single throat latch	Warm	Milder winters, driving, more layering room
A-2	Horsehide or goatskin	Thin fabric lining, no wool	Small leather collar	Light	Spring and autumn
G-1	Goatskin	Fabric lining	Mouton (sheepskin) fur collar	Light to moderate	Autumn, smarter casual
MA-1	Nylon	Synthetic fill	Knit collar	Moderate	Casual, wet weather

Military patterns changed over the years and modern makers adapt them freely, so treat these as typical features rather than exact specifications.

The practical takeaway: if a “bomber” has no wool lining, it is an A-2 or MA-1 style jacket, and it won’t keep you warm in a northern winter on its own.

Aviator jacket vs bomber jacket: the difference

People search for “aviator vs bomber” as if they were two rival styles. In practice, every classic aviator is a kind of bomber, but most jackets sold as “bombers” today are not aviators.

	Aviator jacket	Bomber jacket (as most shops use the word)
What it means	A short sheepskin flying jacket: leather or suede outside, wool inside	Any short, waist-length flying-style jacket
Typical materials	Sheepskin (genuine shearling)	Leather (A-2 style), nylon (MA-1 style), wool, cotton or sheepskin
Collar	Big shearling collar, often with a throat strap	Small leather collar or a knit collar
Waist and cuffs	Often open or strapped at the waist	Usually knit or elastic waistband and cuffs
Warmth	Very warm to extreme (B-3)	Light to moderate, unless it’s sheepskin
Best for	Cold winters, long spells outside	Spring, autumn and mild winters

So, when a listing says “bomber”, check the lining: wool growing from the skin means an aviator-type sheepskin jacket; a fabric lining means an A-2 or MA-1 style jacket. And B-3 vs A-2, the other common comparison: the B-3 is heavy sheepskin built for unheated, high-altitude bombers, while the A-2 is a light horsehide or goatskin jacket with a fabric lining. Same family, very different winters.

How to choose your aviator or B-3

1. Decide how warm you really need it

A full B-3 is built for serious cold. If you mostly walk from the car to the office, a heavy B-3 can be too warm indoors and on mild days. A lighter aviator or B-6 style, with shorter wool, is easier to live with in a city where winters swing between freezing and wet. Our guide to whether shearling is warm enough for a Canadian winter covers temperatures and situations in more detail.

2. Check that the shearling is real

Real shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool still attached, so the wool and the leather are one piece. Quick checks:

• Part the wool. You should see the wool growing out of the skin, not a woven fabric backing.
• Look at a seam or the inside of a pocket. Faux shearling (“sherpa”) is a polyester pile glued or knitted onto fabric, and the backing usually shows somewhere.
• Feel the weight. Real sheepskin jackets are noticeably heavy. A very light “shearling” jacket is usually synthetic or only has a shearling collar.
• Read the label. Look for “sheepskin”, “genuine shearling” or “100% wool lining”. “Shearling-look”, “fleece lining” and “faux” mean synthetic.

3. Look at the details that keep heat in

Detail	What to look for	Why it matters
Collar	Large, with a strap or latch to close it	Seals the neck, the biggest heat leak
Front closure	A heavy zip with a wind flap or overlapping front	Stops wind cutting through the zip line
Cuffs	Straps, zips or a snug wool cuff	Keeps cold air out of the sleeves
Waist	Adjustable belt or side straps	Stops cold air coming up from below
Panels	Fewer, larger panels; neat, even stitching	Fewer seams mean fewer weak points and less draught
Wool density	Thick, springy wool with little skin visible when parted	Denser wool traps more warm air

4. Choose the outer finish

• Suede or nubuck finish: the traditional soft look. Needs a protector spray and more care in wet weather.
• Smooth or waxed leather facing: shrugs off light rain and snow better and is easier to wipe clean.
• Distressed or antique finish: hides scuffs and suits the vintage look; it will keep ageing with wear.

Colour is personal, but dark and mid browns are the classic aviator shades, and they hide wear well. Black reads more modern and urban.

How an aviator or B-3 should fit

A sheepskin flying jacket fits differently from a thin leather jacket, because the wool takes up space inside.

• Length: it should end at or just below the waist. Most aviators are short by design so you can sit and drive comfortably.
• Shoulders: the seam should sit at or just past the edge of your shoulder. Sheepskin barely stretches, so the shoulders must fit from day one.
• Chest: you should be able to zip it over a sweater without the front pulling. If it only fits over a T-shirt, size up.
• Sleeves: with your arms by your sides, the cuffs should reach your wrist bone and stay there when you reach forward.
• Collar: with the collar up and strapped, you should still be able to turn your head.

Sheepskin will soften and mould to you, but it won’t grow. When in doubt between two sizes, most people are happier with the one that fits over a winter layer. See how a leather jacket should fit for how to measure yourself.

How to wear one

The aviator is a bulky jacket, so balance it with slimmer pieces underneath and below.

• Weekend: white or grey T-shirt or a heavy knit, straight dark denim, leather boots.
• Smart casual: roll-neck sweater, wool trousers, suede chukkas or Chelsea boots. A brown aviator over grey and navy looks sharp.
• Deep winter: chunky knit, flannel shirt, lined boots, a knitted hat. Turn the collar up and strap it closed.

Keep the rest of the outfit fairly plain. The collar and the leather are the statement.

Caring for a sheepskin jacket

• Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so the heavy shoulders keep their shape.
• Protect the outside with a suede-safe or leather-appropriate protector before the season.
• If it gets wet, shake off the water, hang it at room temperature away from radiators and heaters, and let it dry slowly. Heat shrinks and stiffens the skin.
• Brush the wool gently with a wide-toothed comb or soft brush if it mats, and brush suede with a suede brush once it is fully dry.
• Salt marks: brush off dried salt promptly. For stubborn tide marks, dab lightly with a little water and white vinegar, after testing on a hidden spot.
• Store it in a breathable cotton garment bag, never plastic, in a cool, dry place over summer.
• Smells: if a vintage or second-hand sheepskin smells of smoke or damp, air it with the wool facing out and use an odour absorber; our guide to getting smells out of a leather jacket has the full plan.
• Professional cleaning: use a cleaner who specialises in sheepskin and leather. Never machine-wash or dry-clean it as normal clothing (see can you wash a leather jacket?).

For smooth leather facings, our guide to cleaning and conditioning a leather jacket applies.

Buyer’s checklist

Before you buy an aviator or B-3, check:

1. It says sheepskin or genuine shearling, not just “bomber” or “shearling-look”.
2. The wool grows from the skin, with no fabric backing.
3. The collar closes with a strap or latch.
4. The zip is heavy-duty and protected by a flap or overlap.
5. Cuffs and waist can be closed or adjusted.
6. Stitching is even, with no loose threads at stress points (shoulders, pockets, collar).
7. It fits over a sweater, with the shoulder seam at your shoulder edge.
8. The weight feels substantial.
9. You know whether the finish is suede (more care) or smooth leather (easier in wet weather).
10. You know the seller’s return or exchange policy for sizing.

Frequently asked questions

Is an aviator jacket the same as a bomber jacket?

Not quite. An aviator is a sheepskin flying jacket with a big shearling collar. “Bomber” covers any short flying-style jacket, including leather A-2 and nylon MA-1 styles with no wool lining. All classic aviators are bombers; most bombers are not aviators.

Is a B-3 the same as an aviator jacket?

A B-3 is one type of aviator jacket: the heavy US military sheepskin pattern with a strapped collar. “Aviator” covers the whole family, including RAF-style jackets and lighter modern versions.

Is a B-3 too warm for everyday wear?

It can be. It was designed for very cold, high-altitude flying. For mild or wet city winters, a lighter aviator or B-6 style is often more comfortable.

Can you wear a sheepskin aviator in the rain?

Light rain or snow is fine, especially with a smooth leather finish or a protector spray. Avoid soaking it, and always dry it slowly at room temperature.

Should a sheepskin jacket fit tight?

Snug but not tight. You should be able to zip it over a sweater and reach forward without the back pulling across your shoulders.

How long does a sheepskin flying jacket last?

With sensible care, decades. Many original wartime jackets still survive today.

Want to compare it with other classics? Read our guide to men’s leather jacket styles, or see how cowhide, lambskin and goatskin differ.